Saturday, December 1, 2007

1 Dec - Le Mont St Michel & Rennes

This place is a UNESCO world heritage site at Normandy, France, also a home to a 13th century abbey as well as an impenetrable fortress for France during the 100 years war. The most unique thing about this site is that it is a tidal island. Due to the geographical position of this island, the high tides in this site go as high as 14 metres daily, leaving Mont St Michel a separate island from the France mainland. Obviously, now there is a road built to link the mainland to the island during low tides.


Le Mont St Michel

It took me 4 hours for me to reach Le Mont St Michel from Paris Montparnasse. All I wished from this trip was that this place would be special, especially since I paid 71 euros (aller-retour) to get there. Alas, when I reached there, I found out that the high tides had occurred at 10 am, and it was nearly 1 pm then. Nonetheless, I would say that the view of the site was quite extraordinary. Later on, I also found out that the 3-storey abbey was built on top of a very steep rocky slope which required very accurate technical calculations. The village leading up to the abbey was a pretty sight, boasting brick walls and narrow alleyways, with fancy restaurants and souvenir shops on both sides.


1st row (left): first sight from the bus; the rest: the narrow alleyways


Can you excuse yourself from not praying by paying for a candle?

The view from the abbey observation towers was really unique. Et il faisait beau aujourd’hui! I was practically surrounded by a 360 degree quicksand. Unguided promenade along the tidal island was thus prohibited as this could potentially turn into a life-threatening experience. Anyway, the abbey had a little gothic touch in my opinion, reminding me of the Palais des Papes in Avignon.



the famous abbey (notice the quicksand all around). the last picture (the wheel pulley) was used to hoist prisoners and food up from the foot of the hill when the abbey was turned into a prison in 13th century.


More views

The walk through the village made me realize that this place is really quite touristy. As my stomach was crying in hunger, I wanted to have a decent lunch (that would have been my first decent meal in 3 days), perhaps in a restaurant which was not too expensive. I walked and walked…to no avail…as the cheapest meal I could get in the restaurants started from 16 euros!! So I switched back to my old faithful ham sandwich.

More walking also revealed the popularity of this woman called La Mere Poulard. I did not get a chance to question the locals who she was, but I am guessing that she had to be a legendary historic figure in the village. Anyway, this “Mere Poulard” became a brand for many types of local butter biscuits, vinegar and wines. Obviously, the price was extravagant; a box of 125g butter biscuits cost 5,50 euros. It was more expensive than my sandwich lunch!


the various products of Mère Poulard

Traveling alone really saved me a lot of time. Original plan was for me to reach Le Mont St Michel at 1 pm, walk around for about 3.5 hours then catch the last connecting bus back to Rennes at 16:45. I finished Le Mont St Michel within 2 hours though so I caught the 15:15 bus back to Rennes so that I could at least walk around in this capital of Bretagne.

Rennes, in my honest opinion, is quite a boring city. It can be considered quite a modern city. The centre-ville was bustling with life as it was a Saturday evening. However, as a tourist, I was not very impressed with anything in particular, except perhaps a few decent architectures. What saved me from the lack of things to do/see in Rennes was again the Marche de Noel (Christmas market). Twice in as many days. This market was even better than that at La Defense in Paris, boasting many interesting colourful food as well as a carousel for les enfants (children). There was a stall which sold churros with hot chocolate for 5 euros…I was drooling very badly but the price was too extravagant. I am really loving Marche de Noel. It has a concept totally different from that in Singapore. And it is like a melting pot of all the interesting food, crafts, products of the region.


1st row: interesting net to contain the falling leaves; free chewing gum. 2nd row: Place du Champ & Parlement de Bretagne

Colours in the market

L-R: Hôtel de Ville de Rennes; Palais St Georges

I was then back to Paris before I knew it and it was the end of yet another memorable weekend.

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